DoRi PaKe SeTo


What Chassis is that? Drift Package?  not really... Well, they used to be....



Underneath this one, WAS the cream of the early series drift package machines from 2006. Drift Package Drift Master Version. "MR-4TC SD LCG Drift" Mid-Rear motor, 4Wheel Drive Touring Car Shaft Drive Layered Carbon Graphite Chassis for Drift.  But only the main chassis and bulkheads remain.


Under this one is is a variation of the Drift Package MR-4TC SD CGM with some Type C and now probably falls into the Type C Plus category with some allow parts. The CGM version is a carbon graphite re-inforced plastic tub. Much stronger and more rigid than the plastic version. Now with some MSt and Yokomo RWD components. It's the least customized of the two.

more on drift package versions here..


So why can't you just use a normal Drift Package for RWD. The simple answer is the basic chassis does not have enough STEERING LOCK. How much do you need.? Plenty.


By plenty... this is what I mean by plenty. When the car is sliding at 90 degrees and past on a huge entry. Replicating a real D1 car's steering angle is fun. While you don't need this much all the time. It's good to have when you need it.


This plastic tub uses the long wipers from the Drift Package Rear drive conversion set purchased separately. Then I used MST plastic hubs and lower Y arms. This is THE CHEAPEST way to get the 4wd drift package to RWD. Note... The Type C is still the better base car as you can get away with only the wipers.

Ignore the blue supports and it's actually pretty stock.


Setting up a car like this takes patience to get the ackerman rod position and the length of the tie rods correct. But the wiper from Yokomo is so much easier to setup than a slide rack. The moving arc of the wiper creates clearance at the hub and the long throw gives more flexbility in setting.

I will still need to adjust slightly from here one it hits the track.

Don't forget to slow your return steering a little. Because if you can turn the wheels to this position too quickly. You will basically create a plough. Now that's a bit stupid to look at.


Here is a heavily modified Drift Master. I've used DRb and custom components, moved all the electrics to the rear and modified the front mounting points.... but... lower arms and knuckles are drift package  RWD conversion components and Slide rack is the Active Hobby style.

The rubber bands prevent the moving arc of knuckles passing the working linear range of the slide rack. there is no recovery from that. Using the mono shock creates space for the wheels to reach their full range without touching shocks. This is also a roll center modification.


Because I have not used standard components, it's become a little complicated. the position of the slide rack was not forward enough for correct ackerman. so extending the extensions was required. A Slide rack is not the worlds best option, it's just a different option. It was introduced to cs cars as a means to reduce play from steering components. But in fact, this rack has more play than the Drift Package Wipers. You may also get more bump steer with a slide rack also as the linear motion doesn't work well with large suspension travel.


If you run less than this angle you can still get reasonably good drift, but running more steering angle gives you the abilty to save a spin. Turning more means you will wash off speed, but allow the steering to catch the spin before returning to something more reasonable around 45 degrees and continuing on.

Remember, you can't run a constant radius corner with this much angle, you wont get anywhere near the forward drive you need but running fast into a massive angle entry, you will get the rewards.

So...

These chassis started as Yokomo Drift Package chassis and there are 9 million parts out there to modify a drift package into something bespoke. Almost every RC drifter in Japan would have started with one and that's why they are the mainstay of Drift Conversions for RWD. After more than 10 years of production, Yokomo's new RWD components means that there is a lot more life left in the doripake.

With MST pushing the other manufacturers, the rwd scene is expanding.

More are coming.

PuRaPaKe DP-R


Yes, More projects... PuRaSuTeKu DoRiPaKe RWD



I had the RF concept M-Chassis with CS 3.4 but wasn't used much. So it's time to go back to full size. 


So I pulled together a lot of parts I had lying around and put in a  couple of extras. ie Long Wipers and MST Front Y arms and Hubs.  Love the low look of the drift package.

Just enough blue to be cool.


First bolt together looks promising. Still to adjust ackerman and full lock.

While I wait for the DRB-REW to be completed. I'm back to Full Drift Package Lineup. That's come full circle.

Speedline CR-1 for Rear Wheel Drive @ GCRC


Speedline CR-1 Medium for Cement



CR-1 Speedline are the chosen control tyre for RWD rear tyres at GCRC, Gold Coast RC Raceway.

Set a massive challenge of finding a tyre that has similar speed to Countersteer 4wd cars, doesn't leave itself on the track surface and can still produce grip is difficult.

Testing over 20 different variations, some were super fast, some were super slow, some were great for 2 laps then terribly slippery, some were worn out in a session.

This tyre was a balanced result for our purpose and the specific needs of GCRC. Just like any track targeting realism and promoting close tandem drifting a control tyre is necessary.   


This is the flat camber design... but they still look pretty round to me. Edges are sharp so be careful when mounting.  Mounting is quite tight. you wont need 0-bands or foam inners. On many rim brands, you may need to remove the sharp edge with a knife and maybe trim the rim edge also.


I only need to mount up to the outer lip. Raised lettering means you can break out some paint and decorate.


What about driving... they look really slippery? Well we all know one tyre behaves incredibly differenty to another.  Stay tuned for a video from GCRC on the super polished concrete. They require a bit more "driving", but once you get used to the "feeling". You will enjoy these.

We are already enjoying the matched speed drift trains at GCRC after only a couple of weeks. Chassis are tuning into the feel and running door to door already.

Join the trains.

gcrc tOOsday


Line 'em up for another awesome GCRC drift session.



Come on down for some super slide action.


New RWD Control Tyres have been set for the main circuit.

GCRC Polished concrete is a special mix. 

SPEEDLINE CR-1 .

These are a specific rear wheel drive tyre for concrete.



Once you get used to the lower rear wheel speed and a squeeze on the throttle, performance is awesome.


Everyone was circulating well.  Countersteer &


RWD... playing together.


Lot's of photographers, means lots of action captured.


Chasing the chaser is a good passtime.


Being chased by the chaser is also good fun.


But whether you like Mayonaise or Tomato Sauce... 


You are always getting squeezed. These 3 are FR-D vs FXX-VIP vs DP-RW


Sometimes you get the shot you want.


Sometimes not.


And sometimes in between.


Chucking the FD around is one of my favorite things.


Build speed then throw it into the corner at close to full lock. Then let the chassis slide at angle while keeping the momentum is a delicate balance right on the limit.


Here we are sorting out speed differences. But the attack  means setting up early and getting back into position.


Being smooth in the train is important. dial out the big entries a little.


180 style.


 R32 Style


Good to see the JUN Hyper Lemon S13 still looking awesome.

Until the next session... Let's go!

DRW-REW Config #3 Typhoon Spec


Typhoon Spec is the Silver Polished Branding for the RE-Xtreme Machines. This Config is the final testing platform. The most DRB of the DRB-REW so far.




Something about black on silver contrast is cool.


Front mock up setting using older components. 


The main changes here include the use of wiper extensions on the forward DRB position. You can see the upper deck has many options.

In this location you can choose the original ackerman bar or you can use an ajustable turnbuckle linked through the bulkhead.  


original servo mount location.(reversed mounts)


It's a bit easier to see with the contrast that the bulheads are raised, Raised ride height, but towers remain at original height. Small carbon details also finish off the stabi.


I installed this antenna from my old car, then i realised i had a built in antenna on the RX-482... haha.


reversing the motor and using a Sakura pulley set means you can eliminate a lot of bearings and tensioners.

Diff polishing underway at this point. 


V2 front end in use. Overdose ackerman bar and OD wipers still used. My extensions just need a spacer on the shock or a little trimming for clearance.


But I'm certainly getting lock. I'm goinf to use GX V2 knuckles on this machine to replace the OLD od 8-8 hubs.

Next testing...