DRB-REW DONOR

Conversion Kits require a donor. This is the start of DRB-REW #004

While many components will still need to be purchased. Having a solid base is always good. 

This DRb is CS 1.8 with full alloy Yokomo Upgrades, Some Overdose parts and the right gear most importantly purchased at the "right" price. Seems a shame to pull it apart.

Something like this new, would have been 700 + Alloy Upgades + CS parts + OD Parts + V2 Front taking it way up there.

But now, something like this is only a fraction of that.  

Converting to my REW-RWD, means you will have some surplus components and the switch to the back means you can eliminate all the long belt guides.

Front One Way,
Front CVDs
Front C-Hubs
Front lower arms

Rear CS Spool
Rear Belt
Guide Pulleys
Tensioner
Main chassis plate
Upper deck
Front suspension tower
Rear suspension tower

( I'll be listing a lot of CS stuff for sale soon )


And some other bits, but then you need to decide what to add.

Because the DRB-REW can support Drift Package parts also for suspension, you have to pull out all your old bits before you decide which way to go.

For #004

I'm still undecided what the eventual setting will be. It's hard to limit yourself to certain components when some of the modern options offer more flexibility.
Required

Front Knuckles and stub axle.
Some Ball Pivots.
Front Lower Y Arms and extensions.
DRB-REW Conversion kit.

and thats about it.

 
On another note. I'm still working on a few other chassis.

DRB-REW Protoype #001 Tsunami Blue DP Wipers.
DRB-REW Conversion #002 Ninja Black GRK Slide Rack
DRB-REW Conversion #003 Typhoon Silver DRB Extensions

DRB-REW Conversion #004 spec TBA

Other current projects include this Plastic DoriPake which is under RWD Construction (includes RF chassis choice).

Too many projects... Yep. You bet.

RE-Xtreme Drift Bible - Steering Scrub Radius

 
Let's have a look at the newer trends in upgrades... Why do we need narrow scrub radius steering knuckles?

Focus on the steering here... the rest of the chassis doesn't change. These items are for Full Counter 4WD Drift and/or RWD. The principle is the same.

Doesn't look to different to a stock SSG DRB actually, but what we are doing is aiming to reduce geometry changes and chassis movement through the steering range.

The old parts I'm replacing here are Overdose KPI knuckles. not a bad item, but the distance between the pivot points (ball end) and the shaft thread is about 16mm

Yokomo Option Knuckle 20mm lower & 20mm Upper

Overdose KPI 8 16mm lower, 19mm Upper


NEW Yokomo Narrow Scrub KPI 7degree 10mm Lower 14mm upper. (top picture)
NEW Yokomo Narrow Scrub KPI 0degree 10mm Lower 10mm upper.

Old style requires a pivot point closer to the chassis.
Note the lower arm extension.
Upper Pillow Ball is clearly visible.

For the same track width the Wheel offset is 5mm wider also.

So Pivot point to Axle is 19mm + offset 9mm. 


Note: These MST rims have been adjusted +9mm Offset with the rim face barely visible.
 

The narrow scrub items place the pivot point  further away from the chassis.
Note the larger lower extension arm.
Upper arm is covered by the wheel.

The CVD dogbone changes from 45.5 to 51mm

The wheel offset changes to 5mm and the face is easily visble.

Pivot point to Axle is 10mm + Offset 5 mm

Note: These MST rims have been adjusted +5mm Offset with the rim face clearly visible.

Compare the differences.

Top Chassis is Wide Scrub with the wheel illustrated by red lines on the bottom. 
Lower Chassis is narrow Scrub with the wheel illustrated by red lines above.

Narrow scrub has a reduced distance for and aft when the wheel turns. This is great for body clearance.
The Lift from castor also is reduced with this setting

And basically we gain more response with a faster action. The wheel doesn't move as far.

You can also see this in this picture.

So is it worth the extra money for a setup like this.

In RC, every mm is valuable. I have upgraded many parts on this DRB. When they all work together, the results are noticeable.

But having said that... I have 4 DRBs.
I still uses C-Hub with Overdose 8-8knucles on two and they perform very well.
Sure it may not be as sharp in response, but depending on the surface, sometimes twitchy and stable are contradictory for good performance.

Narrow Scrub radius may allow you to cut less from your wheel arches on the body and gain in style with aggressive castor and other settings. 

If you have already spent $2000 on your machine, why not another $100

For now the Yokomo DRB with Overdose and other tuned accessories is complete.

Maintenance & Setups

Today the sun was out.

But there was still a little maintenance on the agenda.

New parts means build time... building 3 sets of 4 shocks. Repetitive comes to mind.

BD5 spare set were first on the agenda.

That wait time between air and airless.

Blue set with more options. AIR... Gotta wait till it's all gone.

Caps with sponge... or caps without... clear o-rings or blue. Titanium coated shafts or normal. How far do you go.

But there's more to come.

These are reserved for one of my DRBs. But I am still waiting for a few extras before installation.

The xxxxxtra angle will come on handy.

After Seven's Day... There will be a FULL rebuild.